Samarkand

After a brief reprieve, the Central Asia summer heat has returned. As I continue to travel Eastward, the limitations and restrictions ease up. Uzbekistan is not a thriving drinking culture and is predominantly Muslim, but I think that being under the Soviet Yolk for so many years has definitely influence what is acceptable here. There is no way that hoards of Russians, including the military were going to live in a dry society. That being said, finding a cheap pint or bottle of very decent beer is easy and I am trying to make up for lost time, like a donkey. I searched out the Sam Craft pub, which was a short 10 minute sprint from Registan Square and found the draft to be cold and delicious.

The Hostel Muborak which is very simple, but for $12 a night it was clean, safe and has hot water. In this searing heat, AC is critical but my room was oddly cool(ish) at night with the two fans helping me sleep. I am sitting in a nice courtyard under a canopy having grabbed some snacks from the little tuck shop attached to the place. I had to remember that for every place I stay at in Uzbekistan I need the owners to give me a "registration certificate" that I am to present to customs/immigration when I leave. This was mandatory years ago and travellers could get fined large sums without them. Now it is more relaxed but gathering them covers you "just in case you get a beaurocrat trying to make an name for themselves."  The strangest question that I get from people is "How many languages do you speak in Canada?"  This has nothing to do with their understanding of Canadian History or Politics, they are curious if Canadians speak more than one language. I guess it is because most Uzbeks speak a minimum of 2, Uzbek and Russian, but it is more common that they speak English and maybe Kazak. Yes, most people here speak three languages at a minimum. That is not uncommon around the globe. We in the West really are hicks at times.

Samarkand is in the heart of the Ancient Silk Road and it professes to be the Cultural Capital of the Islamic World. The only reference I have to it was when I was living in Xi'an China, which was the starting point of the Ancient Silk Road in the East. There was a sculpture in one of the town squares with the names of many of the places that the Silk Road meandered through. Samarkand sounded so foreign and distant, almost as if it did not exist. Well exist it does, and here I sit.

This Sculpture in Xi'an China has the silk road cities inscribed, including Samarkand

I have a confession. I am not "overwhelmed" or "awed" by these blue domes Mosques, Madrassas and Mausoleums any more. Much like the "Old Towns Squares" in Europe, it can become a bit of a "Meh" moment. That is all well and good because it happens to everyone. It is just a sign that it is time to change it up a bit. Let me backtrack a bit, what I have seen here is outstanding and hiring a guide to walk me through a few places was worth the $5. The more I learn about Amir Timur I put him in the Bad Ass hall of fame with Genghis Khan, Alexander the Great and  Hannibal Barca (seriously, elephants through the Alps dude?)

The centre of it all here in Samarkan is Registan Square and it does not disappoint. The three Madrasahs of the Registan are the Ulugh Beg Madrasah (1417–1420), the Sher-Dor Madrasah (1619–1636), and the Tilya-Kori Madrasah (1646–1660). Madrasah is an Arabic term meaning school. -- Wiki

There is a nightly light and graphics show that explains the history of the world and Samarkands place in it. I was lucky enough to see it on a night when it was in English. It is free but naturally you have to be aware of all the sketchy little bastards running around selling trinkets and I suspect looking for pickpocketing opportunities. More dangerous is the Phone picture/videos obsessed tourist who does not watch where they are going as they try to get the "best shot?". There was a guy beside me who stared through his phone for the entire 30 minutes of the show, never once seeing it in reality. Our society is doomed. 

Registan Square is considered the focal point of the town square if you will. Surrounded by many historical sites, Mosques, Madrassas and Mausoleums. They are all within an easy walk from my hostel plus this being the "off season" the tourist masses are not to be found. Even the light show was not at busy as the photos show. I spent three days here and tried to get off the beaten track a bit. First I found a massage Spa, yes it was Thai, and not it was not one of those. What I did get was a two hour message for the equivalent of $75, and it was excellent.

Second I went searching for an old Soviet style sports arena just because it was out there somewhere. I could have take a 10 minute cab ride but NOPE, I decided to talk the hour in the mid afternoon heat. There were many shops along the way so I found water, shade and snacks. The place was underwhelming but it was truly Soviet and considering the condition it was still in use. The old guy watching the gate let me in to take a few photos without being prompted, which was cool. That was until I turned to leave and found the gate closed and my guy was nowhere to be found. Into the russian army I go!  The gate was unlocked but it was fun to play "what the fuck is going to happen to me now?" games in my head.

Soviet built sports stadium

Soviet built sports stadium

Soviet built sports stadium

Samarkand can also be the jumping off point into Tajikistan. The border is a short 45 minute shared taxi away. Then once you cross the border it is a short shared taxi ride to Panjakent Tajikistan. That town itself is close to the trailhead for the Fan Mountains, famous for its 5 lakes hike. That is my plan when I work myself back around this country. For now it is nice to settle into a place that is older than the Christian Bible and where the people are a mix of modern friendly to Russian stoicism. Either way, it is an easy country to get around and the dollar stretches far which is cool because I am just beginning.