Onwards To Tajikistan

I loved everything about Uzbekistan but now it was time to move on to what can only be described, in my mind anyways, as the mysterious Tajikistan. As I was in Nukus I had a bit of a journey ahead of me. First was a train from Nukus to Bukhara. It was painless enough, even though it was an 8 hour journey. There are no high speed trains on this route so it was just time to man up, sit in my seat and listen to music. The Old Palace Hotel was a bit of a challenge to find as it is tucked down a few winding dark alleyways, which could be construed as sketchy, if it were not for the fact that it was in the direct route of the shop that I stopped at the first time I was here. I walked in, opened the fridge and helped myself and the owner smiled and waved at me. Three beer later I found my $10 a night hostel, that included breakfast. I tossed my bag onto my bed and headed out for a bit of a night wander around the old town. 

Nothing but scrubland to look at for 7 hours

The train was not modern, but it had its charms

Day 2 was a breeze. I took the mid morning fast train from Bukhara to Samarkand in a smooth 90 minutes. The last time I did this route was on the slow train and it took 7 hours, which I might have written about. The only real issue with the Samarkand train station is the taxis and ride shares all pile into the same narrow parking lot and "yes" it is a shit show. I could not find my rideshare and was getting very aggravated by the aggressive taxi drivers so I left the parking lot, walked about two block and ordered my car. My hotel was a bit far from the centre but the area was interesting enough. My plan was to get a decent night sleep because the next day was Tajikistan time. It was going to be a land border crossing which I really like, and from everything I read it was simple enough.

All throughout Eastern Europe and the former Soviet Republics there is a mode of transportation called a Marshrutka or shared taxi's. They are many variations but are usually vans the travel longer distances. They can be a bit cumbersome and slow as they are not direct as they pick up and drop off passengers along the way. The catch is that they are super cheap and reasonably safe. From Samarkand the Tajikistan border is about 45 KM and Panjakent, my final destination was another 15KM from the border. The plan was to take a ride share to the Marshrutka station and then off to the border I go. On the Tajik side I was re-assured there was ride shared to be had, plus the standard pain in the ass taxi drivers.

My rideshare got me to the station easy enough and then smartly offered to take me to the border directly, for about $6. It was an easy sell. Clean, comfortable and direct and the splurge of an extra $5 was worth every penny. I was warmed that at no time should I take any photos while in the border zone. I never need to be told twice and there is no need to "just sneak a quick photo", after all this is a major land border crossing between two former Soviet Republics. Social Media at your own peril!

Panjakent Bazaar

The main square with the standard war hero statue

I entered the Uzek immigration, and got stamped out quick enough. The thing to remember that at every hotel you need to ask for a registration card for your stay. They print it out easy enough. You need them if you are asked, I was not. One guy at the hostel in Panjakent was asked an he was missing one, which caused him a bit of trouble and he was delayed for two hours. I exited Immigration and started walking toward Tajikistan, completely missing the customs door. The guy smiled and waved me over ( I am sure I was not the first dumb tourist). I tossed my bag onto the scanner and off I went toward Tajikistan. I absolutely love the journey between borders, no matter if it is 100 meters or in some cases a bit longer. There is a palpable sense of excitement.

As usual, it was freaking hot plus this being a Sunday there were quite a few old Muslim dudes returning to Tajikistan. They were not carrying bags or anything for that matter, so I just politely joined the line and the first guy beside me offered up his water. I eagerly drank it. Customs and immigration into Tajikistan took a bit longer as a bus load of Foreigners (those damn  foreigners) pulled up and got immediate preferential treatment. A few of the lads around me motioned for me to join them but I stayed put. I was going to suffer in the heat with the dude that offered me water. Fuck those tourists.

I offered up my passport and was given a quick once over by a guy who seemed to have had enough of foreigners (works for me), and I was stamped through in record time. I walked to the Customs building, it was fairly obvious, and again was waived right through. So down the hall I went and stepped into the bright sun of Tajikistan, and the waiting hordes of "assistants". A guy yelled "Panjakent" to me as he was loading a few people in to his car and I joined them. I think I paid $2 and he drove me to town and I asked to be dropped off as we approached a huge statue in a nice clean town square. My hostel, the Salom was about a ten minute walk from there. I had exchange my Uzbek Som to Tajik Somonis on the Uzbek side of the border (I lost about $3) so I had money to grab a bite to eat in a cafe near the square. So here I was, in the Mysterious Tajikistan, eating a plate of meatballs and rice and having a look at the new stamp in my passport. Tajikistan, you're not so bad!

Hostel Entrance

All Ladas deserve a photo

Panjakent: She ain't pretty

If these old Soviet streets could talk

Khiva

The train from Bukhara to Khiva is classified as a sleeper train and it is set up as one. Many trains to Khiva originate in Tashkent and go through Samarkand, Bukhara and a few other places along the way making the journey quite long, so sleeper cars it is. Now, this is not the Orient Express, this is the Uzbek Soviet Style Express, and it was awesome, in a grungy kind of way.

Khiva is a small fortress town and every travel blog mentions that two days are enough here. They were right. It is up to you because like anywhere you can always settle in and get comfortable. The rooms are cheap, as is the food so it is up to you what your plans are. Personally, it is time for me to move on from Uzbekistan. I have Khiva and then north to Nukus. I need to start following the weather if I want to accomplish a few of my travel goals, including time in Mongolia, where winter arrives fast and furious.

When I got off the train I found my hostel was an easy 30 minute walk and even in the mid afternoon heat I would be fine. What I found was a ghost town. I do not know if it was the heat and everyone was hiding inside, or that it really is "off season" here, but it was a combination of both. If Bukhara was a Jason Bourne movie, then Khiva was "On the Beach" without the nuclear fallout.

Khiva Train Station

Entrance to the Walled City

South Gate

My room was at the Caravan Hotel and it was excellent. $20 a night, private bathroom (a backpacker luxury), hot water, cold AC and a fridge near the entrance to store drinks and snacks. As a bonus, a huge water cooler with cups. To that point, I see other people fill 1.5 litre bottles of water from the free water coolers at these hotels. A litre of water here costs about 60 cents but I guess it is an entitlement on your 20 dollar room with a very good free breakfast. Humans suck. If you had to take a guess, you would be correct as to where they are usually from. 

I had a few nice experiences here. The walled city was great, the place was steeped in history. The lighting at night created a great feeling much like Bukhara, but Khiva was smaller and less busy, a bit more intimate if you will. I had a cool moment when I sat in the little main square watching the local kids kick soccer balls around at about 9:00 a night. I young girl and her father and sister walked up to me and dad pointed at the girl who started talking. She wanted to practice her English which was fine. She was 14, her name was Sara, he sister was Zuhra and her father's name I could not understand. She would translate in between him and I, or we would just chat while dad hung out. Again, taking photos is never my first priority, but a photo here would have been cool. We talked for about an hour about random typical things. The subject was not important, but building her confidence was. 

It is funny. I usually just grab street food, or fast food but every once in a while I need a good meal. This time it was at the Terrasa Cafe, in the heart of the square. It was considered one of the more expensive places to eat but whatever, it was time. The view was exceptional ( look at the website), while not busy the ambiance was nice. I had a huge Kabob meal, with veggies and fries and a couple of pints.. this set me back $22, yes that's right. That was my splurge, $22 freaking dollars. That my children is how it is possible to have extended travel. All told, I will be in Uzbekistan for about 2.5 weeks. With trains, hotels, food, beer, entrance fees and other costs, I will spend just over $600 for my time here. That includes a $40, 2.5 hour cab ride north to Nukus, but that is for another post. 

What did you spend $600 on in the past 2.5 weeks?

Bukhara

The train ride from Samarkand to Bukhara was easy enough. When booking through the Uzbek Train app, you are two ticket options, which I missed because I honestly don't pay attention. The high speed modern fast train and the cheaper slow train with limited or no AC. Guess which one I booked because I can be dumb more times than not. My train was to travel for five hours, compared to the two hours for the modern beauty. The price difference was about $10. Train travel, like everything in Uzbekistan is very reasonable, much like the Yandex taxi rides. Now to add to the agony of a train with NO AC on a blistering hot summer day, my train ran two hours longer than it posted. Good Times.

I did go for a bit of a wander and I found the restaurant car that was bathing in cool air from a strong AC. There were a few decent bits of food but it was mostly sugar. I shared this small victory with the French couple and their two kids (I am guessing 10 and 8) who I was chatting and suffering with. They were on a one year world tour and said that experienced worse on a bus ride in Thailand. Even the kids had this epic attitude. I LOVE LOVE LOVE that they took their kids out of school and traveled the world for a year with them. That is top notch parenting in my books. I did not have the heart to take photos inside the train, but I can tell you that after my disastrous Pakistani bus trip, this was a walk in the park. We all went to the restaurant car and dig into soft drinks, water, snickers bars and other assorted garbage, bathing in the luxury of AC as if we were the Rockefellers.

I said goodbye and goodluck to my 2 hour French friends and prepared myself for the "Taxi Tout Olympics." Normally I will chat, be friendly, and just politely say "No Thank You" as I keep walking. This time however I had my game face on. It was a long day, I was amped up on sugar and was really not in the mood. The first guy grabbed my shoulder and I pulled away easy enough. The second dude started following me and kept telling me that "Yandex does not work in Bukhara.". Let me be clear. My Yandex fare was 25000 Som, which is less than $3. This guy wanted to charge me 40000 Som, an outrageous $4.25. It becomes a game of sorts and  yes,I realize the absurdity of it. 

I found my Yandex after running the gauntlet then relaxed and enjoyed the 20 minute ride to my hostel. That is when the  real fun began. I knew I was going to have a problem finding my hotel because of the name, The Best cheap guest house Muxta-Sham Karavansaray.  When I finally did arrive the actual name of the hotel is Muhtasham Hotel and it includes signage on the main street and in the alleyway. The alley way is a just a term for a one lane very tight street the weaves through buildings and neighbourhoods. Keep reading..

The Yandex driver dropped me off at the side of the main road that I was hoped was near to my destination. I put the actual address into the app and not the dumbass name. It turned out that "yes" it was a short walk but naturally I headed off in the wrong direction because I forget that Google GPS and me are in a constant "state of war". Now, under normal circumstances and in normal towns you can "forrest gump" your way around with the tools that you have at your disposal and be successful. In Bukhara you need a bit more "Jenny" and a lot less "Forrest". 

Entering a neighbourhood off the main street suddenly becomes a scene from James Bond or Jason Bourne. The road is narrow and winds tightly coming upon hidden intersections while enclosed by buildings on both sides. Each turn gets more complex, although random signs for "other hotels" appear on walls and on overhangs. I walked with confidence as the address I entered had me roll up to a nice place with an older couple out front. "How nice, a welcoming committee, they must have seen me."

I said hello and asked if this was the hostel which resulted in confused and puzzled looks from them as an "Ah Shit" thought passed through my brain. I show them the reservation and the old guy and his wife go back for forth, which brought the neighbour over. Old guy then yelled into the house and out bounced a smiling teenage girl who must have been their granddaughter. After the Uzbek madness calmed a bit, I explained to her that I had a reservation for a hotel which led me to their house and I showed her the booking page on my phone. Without hesitating she found the phone number and called the place. This was my kind of "Alpha Girl. As it turns out I was not far off and "yes" I did put the address in wrong. She hung up and happily explained where I needed to go. I picked up my pack was about to leave when she "Alphaed Up" again and said "No, he will take you". I turn to see the old dude pulling an ebike from his garage.

I am sorry I did not take any photos or even ask the names of my saviours but the daughter was all smiles and proud of her accomplishment. We jumped aboard the e-Bike and set off,  two fat guys and a rucksack. This was no Easy Rider moment that's for sure.

Every Bar has one, the poor bugger

Off we went, bouncing down his street like a couple of National Lampoon International Spies. Cars would slowly make an appearance now and then and we had to pull over and let it squeeze by. When we finally hit a main street my Old Guy decides to stop at his friends shop. He turned to me to get off the bike and said "You like beer?" He did not wait for an answer and I just followed him into the shop like a lemming. The two guys in the shop greeted us and opened 4 beer 1 litre bottles of beer and mine disappeared rather quickly, so I bought a second round. Each was 30,000 som, about $3.25 and  I am not sure if it was because I was dehydrated but the second one was just as cold and delicious as the first. They boys were talking to each other and it was obvious it was about my situation with the hostel. The owner of the bar then called the hostel and told them to come and get me because it is their fault that the directions were so poor. I loved these old guys. Sure enough, 5 minutes later a younger guys enters the shop and joins us. Now there are five of us sitting around a large table drinking cold Uzbek beer. The only other guy in the place was asleep at the table beside us. He was finally chased out. Their broken English was great and the young guy was fluent enough to understand easily. My E-Bike guy said no to a third and pointed to his bike (loved that) and the hostel worker and I walked the 5 minutes, down two narrow alleys to the hostel. I checked in, tossed my bag into my room, took a shower and went back to the shop and sat in front of a floor fan and had a few more beer. That my friends is how I was introduced to Bukhara Uzbekistan. 

Bukhara at night

Night Views

People come out at night, hide from the sun in the day

I met a Japanese American Girl name ChinaTse but she said to call her Summer, so I did. We hung out a bit in Samarkand and made a point to meet up in Bukhara. It was nice to hang with someone for a couple of days and we met the next morning for coffee. It was going to be hot so we scrambled to see some of the historical sites before we went our separate ways to enjoy our hotels AC. We met again in the early evening and went to The Plov, for dinner, where we had Plov for dinner. I had plov quite a few times in Afghanistan but it does not compare to the Plov of Uzbekistan. Then it was off to the Mosques and Madrassas for the night show. It did not disappoint. Bukhara is 2500 years old, making it one of the oldest cities in Central Asia. Once the sun went down the people came out, in droves. I found the entire place quite mystical at night and made sure to sit and take in the environment I was a part of and the History that surrounded me. Our friend Genghis Khan conquered much of Uzbekistan in the early 13th Century and destroyed much of Bukhara and Samarkand, as was his calling card, plus Bukhara was a major stop on the Ancient Silk Road.

Uzbekistan boasts a rich history, with evidence of human settlement dating back to the Paleolithic period. It's been a crossroads of civilizations, influenced by Persian, Greek, Arab, Turkic, and Mongol empires. Key periods include the ancient Bactrian and Khorezmian kingdoms, the Samanid and Timurid empires, and the more recent Russian and Soviet eras, culminating in its independence in 1991.-- Wiki

Yes, it is a Lada

This one was a bit older, and I liked it better

If you consider that Uzbekistan finally achieved independence in 1991, that is only a short 34 years ago. You know that many of the older dudes walking around were conscripted and served in the Soviet Army and may have fought in Afghanistan of all places. When you get outside the major tourist areas and walk the old neighbourhoods, you can see the remains of Soviet Style apartment blocks and parks, large ornate government offices and failing infrastructure. You also see Babushkas (Grandmothers) everywhere. These are ladies that have seen some shit in their live, but are always ready with a wave and a smile.

Samarkand

After a brief reprieve, the Central Asia summer heat has returned. As I continue to travel Eastward, the limitations and restrictions ease up. Uzbekistan is not a thriving drinking culture and is predominantly Muslim, but I think that being under the Soviet Yolk for so many years has definitely influence what is acceptable here. There is no way that hoards of Russians, including the military were going to live in a dry society. That being said, finding a cheap pint or bottle of very decent beer is easy and I am trying to make up for lost time, like a donkey. I searched out the Sam Craft pub, which was a short 10 minute sprint from Registan Square and found the draft to be cold and delicious.

The Hostel Muborak which is very simple, but for $12 a night it was clean, safe and has hot water. In this searing heat, AC is critical but my room was oddly cool(ish) at night with the two fans helping me sleep. I am sitting in a nice courtyard under a canopy having grabbed some snacks from the little tuck shop attached to the place. I had to remember that for every place I stay at in Uzbekistan I need the owners to give me a "registration certificate" that I am to present to customs/immigration when I leave. This was mandatory years ago and travellers could get fined large sums without them. Now it is more relaxed but gathering them covers you "just in case you get a beaurocrat trying to make an name for themselves."  The strangest question that I get from people is "How many languages do you speak in Canada?"  This has nothing to do with their understanding of Canadian History or Politics, they are curious if Canadians speak more than one language. I guess it is because most Uzbeks speak a minimum of 2, Uzbek and Russian, but it is more common that they speak English and maybe Kazak. Yes, most people here speak three languages at a minimum. That is not uncommon around the globe. We in the West really are hicks at times.

Samarkand is in the heart of the Ancient Silk Road and it professes to be the Cultural Capital of the Islamic World. The only reference I have to it was when I was living in Xi'an China, which was the starting point of the Ancient Silk Road in the East. There was a sculpture in one of the town squares with the names of many of the places that the Silk Road meandered through. Samarkand sounded so foreign and distant, almost as if it did not exist. Well exist it does, and here I sit.

This Sculpture in Xi'an China has the silk road cities inscribed, including Samarkand

I have a confession. I am not "overwhelmed" or "awed" by these blue domes Mosques, Madrassas and Mausoleums any more. Much like the "Old Towns Squares" in Europe, it can become a bit of a "Meh" moment. That is all well and good because it happens to everyone. It is just a sign that it is time to change it up a bit. Let me backtrack a bit, what I have seen here is outstanding and hiring a guide to walk me through a few places was worth the $5. The more I learn about Amir Timur I put him in the Bad Ass hall of fame with Genghis Khan, Alexander the Great and  Hannibal Barca (seriously, elephants through the Alps dude?)

The centre of it all here in Samarkan is Registan Square and it does not disappoint. The three Madrasahs of the Registan are the Ulugh Beg Madrasah (1417–1420), the Sher-Dor Madrasah (1619–1636), and the Tilya-Kori Madrasah (1646–1660). Madrasah is an Arabic term meaning school. -- Wiki

There is a nightly light and graphics show that explains the history of the world and Samarkands place in it. I was lucky enough to see it on a night when it was in English. It is free but naturally you have to be aware of all the sketchy little bastards running around selling trinkets and I suspect looking for pickpocketing opportunities. More dangerous is the Phone picture/videos obsessed tourist who does not watch where they are going as they try to get the "best shot?". There was a guy beside me who stared through his phone for the entire 30 minutes of the show, never once seeing it in reality. Our society is doomed. 

Registan Square is considered the focal point of the town square if you will. Surrounded by many historical sites, Mosques, Madrassas and Mausoleums. They are all within an easy walk from my hostel plus this being the "off season" the tourist masses are not to be found. Even the light show was not at busy as the photos show. I spent three days here and tried to get off the beaten track a bit. First I found a massage Spa, yes it was Thai, and not it was not one of those. What I did get was a two hour message for the equivalent of $75, and it was excellent.

Second I went searching for an old Soviet style sports arena just because it was out there somewhere. I could have take a 10 minute cab ride but NOPE, I decided to talk the hour in the mid afternoon heat. There were many shops along the way so I found water, shade and snacks. The place was underwhelming but it was truly Soviet and considering the condition it was still in use. The old guy watching the gate let me in to take a few photos without being prompted, which was cool. That was until I turned to leave and found the gate closed and my guy was nowhere to be found. Into the russian army I go!  The gate was unlocked but it was fun to play "what the fuck is going to happen to me now?" games in my head.

Soviet built sports stadium

Soviet built sports stadium

Soviet built sports stadium

Samarkand can also be the jumping off point into Tajikistan. The border is a short 45 minute shared taxi away. Then once you cross the border it is a short shared taxi ride to Panjakent Tajikistan. That town itself is close to the trailhead for the Fan Mountains, famous for its 5 lakes hike. That is my plan when I work myself back around this country. For now it is nice to settle into a place that is older than the Christian Bible and where the people are a mix of modern friendly to Russian stoicism. Either way, it is an easy country to get around and the dollar stretches far which is cool because I am just beginning.

My Travel Photos

 

April 6th - Present

I am currently travelling in Kyrgyzstan
My next stop is Kazakhstan

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A Shift In Gears

The past two months have been interesting as well as eye opening in a multitude of ways. There have been restrictions with the freedoms and choices that I am accustomed to. I knew it going it, but it does tend to wear you down at times. Simple things like a good cup of coffee, a cold beer or having a conversation who was not terrified because I was not a Muslim, when there was a woman to talk to. I am not talking about "hitting on some young hottie with hopeful gains". I am  talking about being around dudes "All the freaking time" who are so used to living in a womanless social environment, that when a woman does enter their area (usually a tourist), they shut down and basically flee. What a life. 

Nonetheless, due to the debacle in Pakistan, I managed to turn a 2 hour direct flight from Islamabad to Tashkent into a 9 hour journey from Islamabad to Tashkent via Dubai and now here I sit in Samarkand Uzbekistan, right in the heart of the Ancient Silk Road. 

I was happy to see this welcome sign

I was advised to plan my Uzbek trip the best I could and book all my tickets online well beforehand as they do sell out fast, so that is what I did. They were cheap enough, anywhere between $10 and $15 but 6 of them suddenly started to add up. My personal victory? I landed in Tashkent late on June 30th, checked in and then found an Irish pub. I got up early and the hostel provided a real nice breakfast buffet. I ordered an Uber who dropped me off in front on an old Soviet Style train station with 15 minutes to spare. I showed my ticket to a few workers who directed me to my train and I was in seat 40 on car number 8 with 10 minutes to spare. A small victory that put me back on track. I will take it.

Tashkent Train Station

Canadians are visa exempt into Uzbek. The only questions I was asked was about my Afghanistan visa. The border/immigration guy wanted to know what it was like to visit there. He stamped my passport, my rucksack was one of the first to arrive and my airport pickup with there with his sign Kun Weiss, close enough. I was warned by my hostel that the taxi drivers will grab you as you leave the airport, some might even grab your legs. Yes, they were all over me, except the leg thing. My pickup was $10US and yes I could have found a taxi for about $3 to $4 but get me out of there. It was the best $10 I could have spent. The driver knew no English, I spoke no Uzbek or Russian so the ride was silent but not uncomfortable. I was checked into the Al Arda Avenue and out the door in about 30 minutes, to the Irish Pub for my first beer in 52 days. It was called Sarbast, an unfiltered Lager, and it was so good I had three. Total cost for three pints, 105,000 som, about $11.50 Canadian and I was told this was an expensive place. It was nice, but it was Russians trying way too hard to run an Irish Pub.

Fast forward to an uneventful three hour train ride from Tashkent to Samarkand. Remember, I now have no earbuds so I could not even zone out to the best of my musical listening ability. The touts and taxi drivers were just as aggressive as the airport in Tashkent, but manageable. I had ordered an Yandex (Uber) and almost every taxi driver told me that the app does not work and the taxi will not arrive, even as I was getting in my Yandex. The crazy thing is that the Yandex rides are cheap, I mean super cheap. It was just over $2 and the ride from the Train Station to my hostel was about 30 minutes with traffic. So, Yandex it is, although everything I want to see and do in Samarkand it within walking distance from what I saw on Google Maps. 

First things first, and much like Tashkent, I know there is a pub and a cold beer somewhere near by, and I am going to find it.