Sandinista, named after General
Augusto C. Sandino
You can find numerous stories, articles and pictures on the history of the revolutions between the Sandinista and the Somoza gov't and then the Sandinista and the Contras so I am not going to try and fill this page with a history lesson. What I have included are 3 links if you have interest on the movement and the revolution. The Sandinista's fought 2 wars. One against the Somoza gov't and then against the American backed Contras (Oliver North and drugs for guns ring a bell?)
Sandinista Movement
Nicaraguan Revolution
History of Nicaragua 1979 - 1990
What I want to talk about today is Leon street art. This is not your run of the mill crazy swirls and curse words bridge art which I do not begrudge as its can be crazy beautiful.. This is some serious stuff that reminds the people of Leon exactly what they have been through.
It really all starts with the Sandinista flag flying proudly everywhere.
Tonight I took a break and went for a walk with Paige, my partner on
various projects, to get some warm stifling hot air and an ice coffee.
We went to the main square and for whatever reason there was a parade
forming (as they randomly do here) and it was being led by a group of
teenager waving this flag. Remember the war and revolution ended 25
years ago and these guys were not even born yet, but there they were
waving the flags with pride. It goes without saying that the lessons of
the past are being told at home from parents who lived through it.
You stroll through the street and you see new signs like the one here or the one above of the girl frisking the soldier. How amazing is that drawing in what its capturing. The people taking over and the soldiers being arrested and searched. You can actually feel it in the people in the way they carry themselves. They know that if they had to they would rise up against anyone. Yes this includes you America. They know what you did to them in the past
Tourist and travelers come to Nicaragua and enjoy everything it has to offer. From volcanoes, great beaches, colonial towns and a dollar that stretches far. It is a place so many are scared of because of it's past and so many are enthralled with because of its present and future. My question would be, how many know what happened here even 25 years ago. Is it something they have in the back of their mind and say "yeah cool, this place was a war zone" or "Oliver North had something to do here". Do people know the difference between the struggles in Guatemala, Honduras, El Salvador and Nicaragua and that they are all separate countries or are they are just melted into one big "shit, I would never go there" place.
If you walk the streets and see vendors or talk to anyone over 35 you have to realize they lived it. Anyone over 45 probably fought in it. The cab driver or shop owner could have been a guerrilla commander and yes sir, there are people walking and working here that have fought and killed. There are families here who have suffered. I am sure the lady that owns the place I am staying at has lots to talk about however it is not something you bring up over morning coffee.
"Good morning Marie, sleep well? Oh can you tell me about what it was like living in the capital of the Sandinista movement and what it was like to have tanks rolling down the street in front of your house? Were you a fighter or protector of soldiers. Did you see much bloodshed? Anyone from your family get killed? ...oh and can you pass the salt for my eggs.
History runs deep here. Political passion is integrated into every aspect of life. There is a sense of quiet pride even with the street vendors. I did not feel this in Guatemala or Honduras and touched on it in El Salvador however did not spend enough time there. As an aside I was in Suchitoto El Salvador a few years ago. A town that was completely evacuated during their revolution. There was a tour you could take (but I missed it for some reason), where you can horse trail ride through the surrounding jungles with former revolutionary soldiers. They tell their stories including how the Americans use to bomb them. Travel to their forts and hideouts all the while giving you first hand accounts. Living History that should scare the sh** out of us. But like most history, it passes and gets forgotten.
I will continue to take pictures of street art, historical art, political art or whatever we are going to call it. I am going to take some pictures of local people (with their permission of course) so you can see what a possible revolutionary looks like. There are older guys on the street here that just have that knowing look but are as helpful as anyone.
I think this is why I came back to Nicaragua. There is a not so subtle pride here based on a violent and turbulent modern history. The people take nothing for granted and are polite to a fault.
I have students who apologize for questioning me when I teach them something and apologize again because they do not want to insult me then wait for me after class to compliment me so as to offset their perceived indiscretion. These same students who were raised by parents who formed a Sandinista movement that overthrew three generations of a corrupt and abuse government in a violent revolution.
Think about that for a second or two the next time you drink your $7 latte.
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