Herat

After the drive back to Kabul from Bamiyan we spent the night at the Khyber  Hotel then we were off again first thing the next morning on another Ariana Airline domestic flight, this time to Herat, a town with more religious historical importance that any city in Afghanistan. I can also now confirm that these Ariana Airlines planes need a bit of fine tuning, well maybe more than a bit. On arrival to Herat a piece of the overhead luggage rack broke and hung there, ready to decapitate anyone who dared to move and nobody blinked. Not my airline and this was the last of my internal flights but get me off this death trap!!

Me, David, Abbas

Taliban flag on the Citadel

Welcome to Herat

A quick photo at the Herat sign and then over to Registration which was as easy as handing over my passport to a guy who took it, and about 4 others into a room and shut the door. He returned about 5 minutes later, smile and said "enjoy Herat". The inconsistencies in this country are fun to watch. However here we were, in Herat. We met our guide and driver from the first two days, Abbas and Mohammad and off we went, into the second part of my journey.

Abbas is from Herat and he was excited to share stories of his growing up. Mohammad had limited english but smiled and would blurt out a new learned word every once in a while and we would cheer him on, his smile and pride glowing.

A cool shot from the Mosque

The Citadel of Alexander the Great

We headed to the hotel to drop off our bags and clean up a bit. When Abbas banged on the metal door to what looked like a garage I was a bit concerned that the hotel was not up to the decent standards we had be given. Once through and past the heavily armed but friendly security guard and then up the elevator to the reception, well the Sadaf International Hotel was just fine. The first thing they offered was "free laundry service" which I took advantage off. 

Old Artisans

Cemetery

85 year old man eager to share his stories

Our first stop was the Malan Bridge that was originally built in 1100 AD. It has since been rebuilt a few times and Abbas made a good point when he said, "yes, we can say it was built in 1100 AD but really it was built in the 1980s after the Russians left, so it does not have much history." Insightful young man that Abbas.

We then set off to Jami Masjid of Herat, or the Central Blue Mosque of Herat  which was built in 1200 AD. These ancient Muslims sure loved their blue tiles. It was then a short drive to The Citadel of Herat was built by Alexander the Great in 330 BC but destroyed by freaking Genghis and was rebuilt a few times over the years. The Mosque was a beauty and we spent quite a bit of time wandering around taking photos, as you do. At the Citadel we did the same, however the three of us found a spot on the roof and sat in the shade. Abbas talked about the history and beauty of the Citadel, again it lost some of it's luster through rebuilds, but it was impressive, nonetheless. Our conversation quietly drifted to local life in Afghanistan and the real situation that Abass and everyone faces, without any gory details. We chatted for the better part of two hours, only stopping when a random tourist or local came nearby...remembering to "never trust anyone."

Now came something incredibly bizarre, the Womans Market. No, not a market to find a bride, but a market dedicated to woman and it was busy. HOWEVER, it did not take long to find members of the Taliban standing guard and any woman who did not have the proper clothing on, or dare to not have her arms fully covered we given a quick "wack" with a stick. This was no video game. I was also told to be care not to bump into any woman because they could scream and accuse me of touching them and my immediate response was "Abbas WTF are we doing here if that is the case?" David, the poor guy was clueless so I suggest we leave after about 20 minutes. I mean it was incredible to experience the absolute mayhem of real life in Herat, but there is a line that I was not prepared to cross. I suggested lunch and off we went.

Day two brought some new insights. After breakfast we went into Old Herat (Charsug) then to the 15th Century Musalla Complex and Minarets. Repeating myself, the ancient history just hangs in the air and drips off these buildings. Then it was off to the Shrine of Khwaja Abdullah Ansari who was a prominent poet, philosopher and Sufi 1000 AD which was a safe space for woman during the Republic years of Hamid Karzai of 2002 to 2014, which fell between the Taliban Government years. Now in disrepair we still managed to pick ripe plumbs' and blackberries from the trees in the gardens.

The wake up for me was to discover that there "were" 5 Jewish synagogues and a working bathhouse in the old section of Herat. After WW2 many jews came to Afghanistan and started a working and thriving community. However, as you can suspect, they were forced out during the rise of the Taliban, thanks to the Soviet invasion of 1979. Two of the synagogues became schools, two were destroyed and we visited the last remain one that was intact. It was very odd to see the Star of David in a Radical Muslim country. 

Finally, we went to an old "way station" that was 300 years old. This was where weary travelers and traders would find a place to stable their horses or camels, plus find a room, food and entertainment for themselves. I stood and had a bit of a daydream about the hustle and bustle of the place. Mostly abandoned now but a few craftsmen and artisans have setup shops in some of the rooms. We were also introduce to a few old guys who have worked here for over 70 years. They did not work now but would come everyday to just hang around, drink tea and chat excitedly with the random tourists that showed up. These guys have lived through some sh** and I was happy to listen to their stories, as translated by Abbass.

Herat was all about the heart of religious history of Afghanistan. It is diverse, complex and mostly unknown in the west. It is Alexander the Great, Genghis Khan and a more relaxed view of the world, although held in secret.

Bamyan

 What once was is no longer, welcome to Bamiyan.

In March 2001, both of the Buddha statues were destroyed by the Taliban following an order given on February 26, 2001, by Taliban leader Mullah Muhammad Omar, to destroy all the statues in Afghanistan "so that no one can worship or respect them in the future". It is with weird irony that now the new Taliban regime protects these reminders with armed guards.

Gate to Bamiyan City

Soviet Tank

Tunnel Entrance

As of now, Bamiyan is the only town where the tension in the air was palpable. There was more security than most towns and I was told it was because this was a major tourist destination, which I find odd because the Buddhas of Bamiyan no longer existed. They are just huge holes in the side of a sandstone cliff, but I guess the historical significance is still strong enough that some of the more "radical Islamic members" are capable of doing anything. This entire area, including the long ride from Mazar, in is littered with the relics of Soviet Tanks. I guess the Soviets thought that Bamiyan was worth fighting and dying for as well. 

Just another check point

Ken, Alim and David

Now that I have that nastiness out of the way, we drove from Mazer to Bamiyan into the valleys that are surrounded by the Hindu Kush Mountains. I just like saying Hindu Kush Mountains. I did not take many photos because they never do this scenery any justice and I do not want to start taking videos, because that can take over everything so for now I just sat back and enjoyed the ride. We stopped at a few mountain streams and let me tell you, the water was freaking cold. Along this road the gov't is constructing and 11KM tunnel and we were allowed to drive through about 3KM of it. David from our group shot a video of it, which goes back to my point of shooting videos. He could have shot 10 seconds and then spliced it together for three minutes because nothing changed. Anyways, it is a big deal and the safety standards are really non existent but your driver, Hakeim knew what he was doing.

Bamiyan Cliffs

A few locals 

The Blue Lake

Aside from the Buddhas, the big draw in this area is the Blue Lake at Band-e-Amir National Park, Afghanistan's first National Park. Fun Fact, the day we arrived we were told that starting the next day the park would be closed to all woman, just because that is how this gov't rolls. They lake was excellent and when It was decided we should go for a swim I was all "let's get er done". Then I stepping into the water and retreated like a yelping puppy. It was colder than the Antarctic waters I had swam in about 15 years ago.

Bamiyan was a nice stop and as usual we could not go out alone at night because it was too dangerous without a guide, so there is NO opportunity to explore and get into a bit of mischief. Regardless this also was an area the Genghis Khan conquered leaving death and destruction it his wake. That Genghis, I am going to have to have a chat with him when we meet up in Mongolia later this summer.

Soviet Tank

This one was painted pink

Valley View of the Blue Lake

Final thoughts on this. The guides are doing their very best to keep us interested (how can I not be) and sharing historical information both ancient and when possible, more modern. As I was told, "be careful because someone is always listening." Everyone once in a while my guide will make a comment like that to remind me that being a tourist in Afghanistan is exciting but there is more to the story of this country, so much more.

Yet more photos with locals

The Hindu Kush

Samangan

This was a full on day that started with an long and dusty drive to the medieval caravan town of Aybak Samangan. It was a great opportunity to pass by local villages and seeing homes made from mud, side of the road vendors and villages working the fields or tending to their goat and sheep herds, many times blocking the road. Our goal was Samangan's ancient Buddhist Temple complex and the Takht-e-Rustam Stone Stupa. Something I have rarely even considered was the life in Afghanistan before the Taliban, let alone ancient times. The ancient silk road not only brought spices and silks, but also new influences including religion. Buddhism was a major player in this region for centuries until what was called the 15th century cultural revolution, which began in of all places Herat, the historical melting pot of religious change in Afghanistan. War, revolution and political strife is not a modern phenomenon in Afghanistan. It is rooted in thousands of years of history and conquest that include Alexander the Great in 330 BC, the Silk road by the second century and Genghis Khan in 1219-1221.

At the end of the market in front a Buddhist Alter.

There was a bit of a side trip along the way which was a nice surprise. It was a 250 year old palace/fort for a wealth tribe of the time. I do not remember the name but the place was impressive to say the least. The walls still stood strong and tall but the building was falling into disrepair as you would expect. It was easy to imagine the majesty of it all during its heyday. There was a reception that looked as familiar as any hotel today, the gardens were massive and the huge pool/pond that sat out front had seen better days. If you wanted cholera then drink up that shiny green liquid baby.

In front of the fort with our driver, Rashed

The Market Tunnel

With my guide, Alim

I did not know what to expect when we arrived at the Buddhist complex and Takht-e-Rustam stone stupa. I have not read anything about the places we are visiting along the way. I have an urge to keep the experience pure and not have it marred by internet commentary. Plus Alim our guide is knowledgeable and very excited to share that knowledge with us. First things first, it was time to climb. Both places were build high on a hill, which is a very common thing here in a land of hills and mountains. The Buddhist temple was then carved into the mountain and the complexity was fascinating. There was a long tunnel that was a market where the shop/stall vendors could sell to people inside and outside of the market tunnel. There were many alters and worship sites, plus storage areas and a few homes for the local caretakers. Many of the inhabitants were villagers and farmers from the surrounding countryside. There was another tour that showed up from Lupine Travel. They had a van of 6 woman on a woman's only tour and they were in the same hotel as us. When we met up with them it was like we had known them for years. Lupine Travel has some very interesting tours to think about. Just a bit of random options along the way to put into my travel toolbox.

The view from the Stupa and Buddhist Temple

A local along the road

There was a bit of anticipation on the drive back to Mazar as today we were going to visit the famous Blue Mosque and then attempt to walk the markets in Mazar. If there is anything I have learned with my short time here is that markets are everywhere and they are all madness. There is no politeness here, it is push to be first, interrupt to get served, bumping, shoving, honking of horns, screaming, and tourists wandering through it all wide eyes, until they catch the tell tale Taliban members standing guard and keeping everything in order

The Mausoleum of Imam Ali or Blue Mosque dates by to th 1170. In the 13th Century Genghis Khan came through the destroyed everything and massacred the population, as he did.

The first structure of the site dates back to the Seljuk era. It was built by Sultan Ahmad Sanjar in the 11th century. In the 13th century, the Mongols under Genghis Khan invaded Balkh, where they massacred the Balkhi population and destroyed their places of worship. The mosque built by Sanjar was destroyed by the Mongols in the year 1220. -- Wiki

It does not seem real even when you are there

Photos with locals

Blue Mosque Tile Work

The place was outstanding and we were welcomed with open arms. Many of the worshippers came up to talk to us but nobody asked about or mentioned religion. It was all very friendly and inviting. We were picture taking fools. It was calm and very peaceful and oddly enough quiet, considering it was surrounded on three sides by the Markets of Mayhem.

All told, it was an excellent day of visiting ancient sites dating back to before the ancient silk road. It was also a reminder the Genghis Khan was a real badass and conquered these territories by sheer will plus the religious history is much more complex than the modern Taliban radicalism. I learned a bit later about how thousand of Jews left Europe in 1945 after the war and settled in Herat, but within 40-50 years there was a forced exodus by the rising radicalization of Islam, but more on that later.

A busy roundabout

Market Madness Traffic

A local street vendor

Just a reminder that this is Afghanistan. Along they way there were numerous checkpoints by either Taliban, the Army, the ANP (Afghan National Police) or local police, and each were heavily armed.  Also, we needed to register and be checked into each place we visited, even the abandoned fort had a guard house and a very bored looking old man minding the place. The checkpoints were painless but it was just keep quiet and hand over the passport, take of your sunglasses and roll down the windows of the car. Usually it was quick and painless and we were given a smile and at times a handshake. Others we were told to get out of the car and stand to have our photos taken with the passport. There were no searches or anything intrusive, it is just a backwards society build on fear and intimidation with a modern history of invasion, war, revolution and religious extremism. 

...but what an incredible history.

Mazar -e-Sharif

It's moving day. It is time to leave Kabul and head north to Mazar - e- Sharif and that means flying domestic in Afghanistan with Ariana Air. Yes that's right, a domestic flight in Afghanistan so I had no intention at looking for online reviews. I felt I knew what I was getting into and in the end it was exactly what I was getting into. The plane itself had to be 30 years old, at the very least but there must be some international safety inspectors that make sure the thing does not drop out of the sky, well let's hope that is the case.

After arriving I had to register with the airport which meant showing my passport, my itinerary and the contact of my guide. It was painless. I grabbed my pack from the carousel and walked out into the blazing heat of Mazar -e-Sharif. In Afghanistan nobody can wait in the terminal at arrivals, they wait outside the airport in the parking lots. A short 5 minute walk and my new guide Alim and new driver Rashed found us easy enough. If I have not mentioned it, I am travelling with David who is on my tour. Originally from Hong Kong but now living in the UK he is a low maintenance team member which is great.

Our first stop after a dropping our bags off at the hotel and a quick lunch we registered with the town tourism department, then we stopped at a very anonymous building and Alim went inside and said we will go back to get our security guard. That perked me up a bit from my slumber.

We had time so off we went to visit the Green Mosque which was beautiful and the phones came out and we clicked away. I usually do not take many photos, but this crew is all about it so I joined right it the fun. Plus, they always take at least five shots because one will not do. It was then off to a city park where there was a working water pump and I was told that the water was fresh and clean. I drank some, fu** it. I have gained the travelers 20 so a bit of dysentry to lose the expanding belly is not the worst thing, I guess.

It was fun, but this day was all bout going to be the Burj e Ayaran Tower and City Wall. Remember that security guard I was talking about? It turns out he was a member of the local Taliban community. We went back to the nondescript building where Alim asked me to join him, so like a lemming, I did. We entered and walked down a short hallway then spread the curtain and entered a room that could have come straight out of any movie of the genre. There was an older guy sitting on the floor and he waved us in. There were three other guys, each deep in prayer, kneeling on their rugs, their AK47s beside them. I was in the dragons den, but oddly calm. Alim spoke with the older guy who I guess (correctly) was the local commander. He was going to have one of the soldiers escort us to Burj e Ayaran Tower and City Wall because in the past there has been trouble with some of the locals. Our guard would stop any nonsense in a second, and yes it is exactly what you think. We jumped in the car, Alim joined David and myself in the back and our guide posted up in the passenger seat, his  well work niAK on full display. 

Our first stop was a short 30 minute drive to The Ruins Haji Piyada or Nine Domed Mosque, which date back to the 9th century. This is ancient history at its finest. As Alim was explaining both the history and significance most of it went over my head. The historical names meant nothing to me because I know nothing about them, this place or that time in history. A bit of googly googly when we went back to the hotel later that day helped.

We wandered around for about an hour and to be honest, I was enthralled by the site. These site go to the core of human civilization and although I nothing about this part of human history I was fascinated by the architecture, the carved inscriptions and what this placed looked like in it's glory.

Back into our little vehicle of security for another short drive that took us to Burj e Ayaran Tower and the City Wall. This was to be the highlight of the day, but trust me, that highlight happened about two hours later. I am going to repeat myself in that this ancient site could only be imagined in all of its spectacular glory. The other important part of this area is the Temple of Zoroaster, which is a small stone dedicated to the creator of Zoroastrain.

Ancient City Wall

"Zoroastrianism is an ancient monotheistic religion founded by the prophet Zoroaster in ancient Iran. It is one of the world's oldest living religions, with origins dating back approximately 3,500 years. Zoroastrianism was the state religion of several Persian empires until the Muslim conquest of Persia in the 7th century AD. Today, Zoroastrians, known as Parsis in India, are a minority religion in parts of Iran and India."  -- Wiki

Temple of Zoroaster

Lead up to the city wall entrance

There were locals in the area offering horseback rides and trinkets for sale. I paid the horse owner a few Afghani (a more creative name for their money should be a priority). We wandered the walls and the tower, the views were great but the enormity of the city is what catches your eye. As I have posted in the past, and I suspect will continue to do so. This was a major stop on the Ancient Silk Road and it was conquered by Genghis Khan. (you can look up the dates).

Highlight of the day you ask? Alim sent the driver to pick up a watermelon, it is the season and they are everywhere. They spread out a blanket just outside the city wall and in the shade of a huge tree. We all sit down, including our security guard and Alim proceeds to cut the fruit and distribute it. A few locals walked by and joined us. I was just chilling enjoying the moment when it dawned on me that I was having a watermelon picnic that included a member of the Taliban, whose AK was resting on the blanket beside him, about 6 feet from me. In the end, he was quite friendly in a standoffish way and he allowed us to take his photo.

Yes, exactly!	A friendly local selling rides