Kabul Day

First things first, I needed a nap.  My tour leader for this leg of the trip is Abbas and the driver is Muhammad. The other traveler that joined me is David from Hong Kong. Abbas knew the routine and suggested we stop at the hotel and have a rest for 3 hours. I was down for that. And it was so.

Three hours later (these guys are prompt) as I was rubbing the nap, the excitement and now the street dust from my eyes we set off into the insanity of Kabul traffic in the direction of a tailor shop. Once here, I chose the cloth and was measure up for a custom tailored Peraahan. This is the long top that covers the top of the body to the knees. I was not going to get the pants, which was dumb as the top cost me about $22 Canadian. When we picked it up a few hours later, it fit like a charm. This was considered very good quality from a very good shop. I learned later that you can purchase the entire Perahan and Tunban combination in many markets (not a custom fit) for about 250 Afghanis, or about $5 Canadian. That was on my list of to-dos as I can wear this clothing in Pakistan as well. Dropping into a local pub in Niagara Falls might cause a few heads to explode, so when I return, if I have not destroyed my Peraahan, I am going to do it. Personal Challenge accepted.

Next up was lunch, and just as I feared it was the whole sitting on the ground thing. I am not flexible any longer and crossing my legs is not going to happen, but I manned up. I just Weebled the entire experience. How does that work you ask? First, I was lucky to have the wall to lean back on. Then I would roll forward, grab some and roll back. It was both embarrassing and hilarious. You certainly do not need to sit cross legged so I found a way to de-weeble myself and enjoy my lunch. The Afghani live this way and there were old dudes sitting comfortably cross legged while they ate near us. Abbas said we can find restaurants with tables, which was cool, but if I am going to be here, I am diving all in, no matter of painful and messy it is. I say that now, lets see what happens in a few days.

After lunch we strolled around a few local markets and bazaars to get a feel for the place. We were encouraged to chat with any of the shopkeepers who were willing. They would usually be the ones to start to conversation with the guide and ask about us. It was always the same. Hello, how are you? Where are you from? Welcome to Afghanistan. There were always big smiles, handshakes and a few hugs along the way. To be clear, we did not speak with any woman, it is completely forbidden, unless a male family member is there and he participates in the conversation. With tourists it rarely happens.

We were given a bit of a reality check when walking through the Bazaar. "These are busy places. Put your phone away (which just about made David's head explode). The Taliban are everywhere. If you take a photo and there is a woman in the photo, or worse a Talib and they see you, well there is NO negotiations. That is the end of you."  This information was in our briefing pack that was sent to us. Also no photos of government buildings, police stations or check points. David in his "Chinese Way" really did not grasp the reality of it at first. Then it all sunk in and his eyes grew real wide.

Its Watermelon season

His stupidity caught up to him about 15 minutes later. You can ask a shopkeeper if taking a photo is possible, and most will be happy to. David just wandered up to a bakery and started clicking. Well the old dude lost his shit and came out screaming. Abbas was a miracle worker and calmed the guy down and off we went in a hurry. 

Security is visible and again they are not. the There are rules to follow that I mentioned plus simple things such as "don't stare at any woman", "avoid conversations about religion and politics," and "always carry your passport." This is only day 1 and being reminded about reality and staying grounded is critical. People stare out of curiosity and woman will avoid looking at you all together (which is fine, I will be in SE Asia soon enough). Abbas keeps an eye on us and knows what to look for. We ask now if photos are possible (mine stayed in my pocket most of the day).

I am NOT in any danger. I will not be arbitrarily arrested, imprisoned or worse. The people I have encountered are kind, friendly eager to show that Afghanistan is a great place to visit. I have been offered, and drank about a gallon of tea that has been offered to me/us. It is just so damn hot that along with the water I have been drinking I seem to be just sweating it all out.