There is a second castle near Bratislava that sits high above the Danube which separates Slovakia and Austria. As you may suspect, the history of this area is also incredibly dark and dangerous as I just can not seem to get away from it. This castle has seen better days but since there is evidence of a human settlement here dating back 7000 years we should give it some love. Plus, 7000 years, take that you mummified Egyptians! However, the first written account referred to it as Donia in 864 while the upper castle dates to the 13th Century.
The tram system in Bratislava is easy and fast. There are machines near major stops where you purchase your ticket, but it needs to be verified when you board the tram which is straightforward. First things first, seniors over 65 and kids under 12 RIDE FOR FREE. Do you hear that Canada, seniors ride for free! I purchased a 24 hour ticket, which allowed me to ride any tram or bus for 24 hours and the ticket cost me 6 Euros. There are also 48 or 72 hour tickets. One verified ticket for three days and off you go. Of course this would never fly in Canada because it is just a different mindset in Europe, much like cars stopping at crosswalks without fail.
![]() |
The View from the Tower. The might Danube on the right |
![]() |
This table cloth shirt has a short shirt life |
The castle and surround area was very relaxing. The walk up to the tower was easy enough plus at the base of the tower lever there was a coffee/beer cart. As this was 10 in the morning I settled for an iced latte and walked around looking at the views of the town, the surround valley, the Danube and of course Austria, which was just a bunch of trees but they were Austrian trees.
Now, what is the mystery of standing and looking at the confluence of two rivers, this being the Danube and Morava and why is it oddly satisfying? I do not have an answer for that question but by the number of people stopping to look, hang about and take photos it appears to be a universal phenomenon.
![]() |
Oooooh, Aaaaaah |
After my enthralling iced coffee viewing of the merging of two rivers a bit more exploring let me to a museum, which sounded cool. I like looking at ancient sh** alas it was not to be. This was the Devín Behind the Iron Curtain 1948–1989 which is an exhibition that revisits disturbing memories of communist totalitarianism. I went back to the coffee cart of a morning beer.
The short version is that the iron curtain was very real and not just in Berlin. The paranoid Soviets installed miles of barbed wire and guard tower all along this area to prevent escaped into Austria. I am not sure how many miles it stretched but it must have be extensive because the Danube runs a long way. As you would expect there were escapes, escaped attempts, deaths and uprisings. Bullet riddled monuments (which seems to be a thing in this part of the world) are a testament to the Slovak Struggle. In 1989 it all came tumbling down and if you want to have a causal 10-minute boat ride to Austria you could, but back in the day that would have gotten you killed.
![]() |
1949. A photo of a photo |
![]() |
1989. Citizens tearing it all down |
There is a nice path that circles the castle and also runs along the Danube. It is filled with joggers, bikers, walkers and people just hanging out watching the river. There is an old soviet army camp near the castle, about a 2k walk but it can be very dangerous with unstable ground and unstable people milling about so I gave it a pass, went of an ice cream and found the bus back to the old town of Bratislava.
No comments:
Post a Comment