GIlgit

 Gilgit is the gateway to the Northern Areas of Pakistan. Normally, it is filled with tourists at this time of the year but, since the issues with India in late April, "All the tourists have gone". This is what I hear over and over from the people at my hotel, food vendors and shopkeepers. During my four days here I did run into three germans, two guys and a girl plus a couple of dutch guys at my "go to" coffee shop The Coffee Shrine.

The area that I was staying in was busy, messy, dirty, smelly and the traffic had no rules. My hotel was up a long hill and was away from it all and it only took me a day to find my rhythm in the chaos. I had four days to figure out what the heck I was actually going to do and where I was going to go. What I did know was that I was going to take a local bus (more about that later) to Hunza up the Karakoram highway that was built by the Chinese. For now, I just wanted to get a feel for being out of Islamabad.

The Coffee Shrine

Spicy Momos and a banana/mango milkshake

Street View on a calm morning

As I said, I found a great coffee shop with excellent Wifi, although my eSim was strong as well. I tested out a few shops for food and found a few that I liked. The "calmer" part of Gilgit was a 20 minute taxi ride away but I figured I would just stay in that area when I returned for my flight back to Islamabad. There was no way I was going to take that bus back.

I could not have asked for better people than those that took care of me at the Duroyo Hotel. Regardless of the fact that my Booking discount was 40% because of my rating level, I was treated very well. The kitchen fridge was always filled with two litre bottles of fresh spring water which meant a lot considering how hot it was. There were issues with power  and wifi outages but you just had to roll with it. 

On one of my tenuous street walks looking for the currency exchange I came across a downed Indian Helicopter from one of the many issues this area has faced. It was displayed proudly on the main street across from the an army base that I didn't even notice was there until I turned around. There were commemorate plaques that included very disparaging comments about India, but what do you expect.

I did find a nice 5k hiking trail after walking up the hill my hotel was on, instead of down. It was built about 10 years ago and was well maintained, although the guard rails have seen better days. It ran along the mountains that circled the town giving me an exception view of the surrounding area. 

I had a fairly easy and somewhat uneventful time in Gilgit. I met some nice people, ate some delicious food including an obscene amount of watermelon and cherries, and talked to a few foreigners who were all traveling around by motorcycle. However, I am ready for a bit more from the country and it is going to be in the North, and down the Karakoram highway, hopefully to the Chinese border if I can arrange it.

Standing at the land border of China and Pakistan on the Karakoram is not on my Bingo Card, but I am going to put an effort into getting there, just for the hell of it.

Off To Gilgit

What possesses a bus driver to jump into the driver's seat of a 40 passenger bus and figures that he is both invincible and he has the ability to handle said bus like it was a Formula 1 race car. Is it ego, machismo or is he just dumb enough to think he is smart.

These mountain roads from Islamabad to Gilgit were exactly what you think they are. Sometimes paved, sometimes dirt. They are wide enough or narrow enough depending on your mood, that two vehicles can pass but it is close. Passing on curves is mandatory while speeding up during the downhill switchbacks is a "challenge accepted" moment. Yes, it sounds cliche but on left hand side is a rocky mountain in which large boulders have made their presence known and have not been moved. On the right hand side is a river that runs in a valley that is no less than 1000 feet below, and at times it is straight down. There were more that a few gasps as we bent and weaved along this precipice and I counted three times that someone left their seat to speak with the driver. He was also accosted pretty good when we stopped for food.

The "good news" was that there were large area of the road that was under construction and the multitude of military checkpoints helped slow us down. There really was nothing for me to do so I put on my earbuds, played some Enigma and Delerium closed my eyes and tried to clear my head of the thoughts that were running through my head. I had been through this scenario a few times before in Central and South America in the past and I know the helpless feeling very well. Fucking bus drivers!

I purchased my ticket from NATCO, a reputable bus service. I left the massive bus station in Islamabad at 3:00 knowing that I will be arriving at approximately 6:30AM the following morning. The bus was modern enough with air conditioning so I loaded up on a few snacks to hold me over. As for snacks, my "go to" are KurKure Red Chili Jhatka and Sting Soda. I get heavy doses of both salt and sugar which are needed when it is this hot. I was looking for a few oranges, sliced watermelon, sliced mango or bananas but the market stalls in the area were not the best. Actually, I think this is where fruit comes to die. The Hunza Valley in the north is famous for its fruit, especially cherries, so I will gorge when I get there.

To prepare for this trip, I had to have 10 photo copies of both my Pakistan Visa and my passport. I got that done easy enough. The reason for this is that the Gilgit-Baltistan region has a separate administrative region from Pakistan called the Northern Areas plus it is a part of Great Kashmir. This means military checkpoints along the way and handing over a photo copy is easier then being pulled off the bus each time. It was not too long ago that violence against tourists in this area was common but the only thing I had to fear was the bus driver taking us over a cliff at a high rate of speed. Aside from that the trip was uneventful. There was a bathroom break and a late night meal break, plus the road is under heavy construction and there were long delays. I think I managed to get about 2 hours of sleep as we pulled into Gilgit at 6:30 AM, oddly enough right on time.

Booking offered me a "Level 3 Genius Discount" at the Duroyo Hotel so I booked it, $84 for 4 nights, plus they will have my room ready at 7AM so I can rest after my bus trip. This is a common offering in Gilgit for tourists coming on the bus from Islamabad. I could not get off the bus fast enough, grabbed my pack and started the 30 minute walk to the hotel. Taxis and motos were all over me but it was early, there was no traffic and I needed the walk. First impressions, this town was dirty and there was garbage everywhere. Sure, it is surrounded by epic mountains, some with snow capped peaks and it will be a decent enough place to start my trip into the Hunza Valley, but I needed some sleep to regroup. The hotel did not disappoint, I arrived and I was sound asleep in a big comfy bed about 20 minutes later. There was no checking process or need to pay, just a "Welcome sir, now you need some rest."

It did not take long to find a decent coffee shop, The Coffee Shrine, who have learned that foreigners will pay for a decent cup of coffee. I also stumbled upon a small restaurant that was dirty AF but served up the best Momos and milkshakes. Twelve Momos and the banana/mango shake was 350 Rupees, about $1.75, so this was going to be my "Go To". There are alot of places to eat, but my appetite has not been the strongest since the end of my Afghanistan trip. A few small meals a day, a bit of fruit and a lot of water has been fine. As I mentioned before, I have put on the travelers 20 so losing a bit of weight is not the worst thing right now. This is not a town to wander around and explore. The traffic is busy, aggressive and loud. The streets are dusty and the sidewalks, or what there are of them are dangerous with large open sewers and water run off gutters that are easily two feet deep and wide open. 

Travel in Pakistan is not for rookies or for people who can not adjust to their situation. It is loud, dirty and aggressive BUT most people are kind and very friendly if you start a conversation with them. Even with limited English and the same standard questions "Where are you from?", What is your good name? (first name") and so on, if you just slow down and take it all in, you will be fine. Just like anywhere else, what you put into your situation is what you get back in return.

Access Denied!

 After four nights at the Rising Millet, I moved hotels because I was going to be in Islamabad longer than I wanted so why not change it up a bit. I packed up and walked the 30 minutes to the Lexus Lodge, which was on the same street as Timmies. My walk was still about 20 minutes but down a main road with wide sidewalks. The room was a bit cheaper, 5 nights cost me $84 Canadian. It was clean, safe and the owners were incredibly helpful. The WIFI was solid but I just did not have any hot water so to speak, so my showers were fast and furious. They would also food delivery for me if I wanted which I did a few times. I do not have much of an appetite in this heat which is fine because I am still trying to get rid of the "Travelers 20" that I have gained since I jump on that plane in Toronto.

I wanted to get out a bit after just hanging around my area so I jumped in a cab and went to the Pakistan National Monument and Museum. It is an impressive place and the design is outstanding, giving credence to the History of Pakistan. The best part was the cab ride back. I negotiated a price of 450 Rupees, about 2.25 and jumped in a beat up old car with a sketchy driver. He immediately laughed as he left the parking lot and drove down a sidewalk / walking path through the bush towards the main road. "We take a shortcut he laughed." I gave im a 100 Rupee Tip (.50 cents).

Today was going to be a very exciting day. I discovered that the Canadian Embassy has a bar/restaurant that is supposedly open to Canadian citizens. Could a cold beer be in my immediate future? This is how we survived in Bangladesh, with access to the Australian, British and US Embassies. The Canadian was not open to the public but I did go half a dozen times to play ball hockey on the tennis courts there, which was weird, but we had access to the bar and pool afterwards. The reviews were positive and there was nothing about it being closed to the general public. The "I am dying for a beer optimist" jumped in a cab and off I went. Once we entered the Diplomatic zone of Islamabad you find yourself in the Islamabad that is advertised as having wide tree lined roads, lots of green space and a modern infrastructure. I was on a mission and the first clue should have been when I was stopped at the Main Gate of the Embassy Enclave by security asking if I had a Diplomatic Passport. After a bit of back and forth they told me I could enter but I had to walk. Once inside it was another world. Most of the embassy of the world were in this bubble that was surrounded by huge white walls that were topped with the standard barbed wire. There were bored looking security guards everywhere and nobody paid me no never mind. I passed Malaysia, Yemen, Italy, Spain and Korea. The streets were filled with embassy employees out walking or jogging, living their embassy lives inside the bubble of the enclave. 
To make the long story boring, I walked the 20 minutes to the Canadian Embassy and they guards thought I was insane trying to enter without a club membership. They took my passport and returned it about 5 minute later, DENIED. I needed a membership and in order to get one, I needed to know someone inside the embassy. Basically diplomats only. I could have pushed the issue but I was in Pakistan in a highly secure embassy zone so I just, smiled, turn and retraced my steps out, muttering under my breathe. Nothing ventured nothing gained I guess.

I jumped in a cab and figured I needed a win, so off to the Shah Faisal Masjid Mosque, which claims to be the 6th largest mosque in the world.

The Faisal Mosque is the national mosque of Pakistan, located in the capital city, Islamabad. It is the sixth-largest mosque in the world, the largest mosque outside the Middle East, and the largest within South Asia, located on the foothills of Margalla Hills. It is named after the late King Faisal of Saudi Arabia. It has a capacity to accommodate approximately 300,000 worshippers. It was once the largest mosque in the world but is now the fifth largest based on capacity, according to Madain Project. The mosque's main prayer hall can hold 10,000, the porticoes 24,000, and the courtyard 40,000. Additionally, the adjoining grounds can accommodate another 200,000 worshippers.- Wiki

I did have a nice moment here. It was a huge complex and very busy, mostly with locals taking photos. The mosque itself was closed for whatever reason. I peeked inside and one of the guys inside waved at me and pointed towards the door along the side. Off I went to see what was up. He had the security guard open unlock the door and told me I could go in for 10 minutes to look around and take some photos. He pointed to the stairs and I did not need to be asked twice. Looking at the beautify red carpeted prayer room I wondered how beautiful it must be to see up to 10,000 worshippers kneeling in prayer at the same time. The guy came up the stairs and took a few photos of me, obviously a sigh that my 10 minutes was up. I thanked him, then wandered around taking photos of the grounds. A few locals started talking to me, offered to take photos then immediately asked for my Facebook. They were messaging me all day long and into the next day. I deleted them, sorry Allah.

I then took another cab to Saidpur, one of the oldest districts in Islamabad. The entire place smelt like sewage. It was the day before EID and the entire main strip was loaded with Goats and Cows being prepped for slaughter. There was shit, piss and garbage everywhere. I walked the main street and into a few of the side streets, but I could not escape the smell. I took my photos and head out, stopping for a drink hoping that would take the taste of this nasty place out of my mouth. It didn't.

I need to walk, even for a short while. It was 43 degrees Celsius and you just do not get used to that heat. I needed water, shade and AC. Google maps told me that I was about 30 minutes from a few western style restaurants which were on the edge of the Embassy Enclave. Well done Google. I found the little side street and yes, it was a full on Western style crescent. There were a few restaurants, whose patios were closed because of the heat, but there was a Gloria Jeans Coffee Shop. I entered and the AC felt like christmas morning. It was filled with internationals, which I assumed were embassy staff. I found a seat and settled in. Grilled chicken Sandwich with fries, a large Iced Latte, a can of Pepsi and a decent size slice of carrot cake and it set me back about $13, no tip required. Now this is an Islamabad I could get used to.

Hello Pakistan

Welcome to Pakistan. This was my third Islamic country in a row but the main reason I flew here was that it was the cheapest flight out of Kabul, without having to go back to Dubai. Regardless, by the time I leave here on June 28th it will be almost two months since I could enjoy a beer. It is not a deal breaker as I have gone longer in Canada without even thinking about it. I would just like the option once in a while because a man can only drink so much freaking tea.

Mistake Number 1: I knew that June is the hottest month in Pakistan and I ignored it. How hot could it actually get. A scan of the weather network app showed that the average temperature in Islamabad for the next week to ten days will be 40 - 45 degrees Celsius which is 100 to 110 degree Fahrenheit. 

Mistake Number 2: Not planning ahead. Internet was sketchy at best in Afghanistan but I had plenty of time to do a bit of research and have some type of Pakistan plan aside from I want to go here, here and here. What did not cross my radar was The Holy festival of EID Mubarak was on the June 6th weekend and every bus seat out of Islamabad is booked solid until June 10th. Internal flights were limited but were triple the normal price as everyone was heading home for the holiday. Now that being said, I was basically "stuck" in Islamabad until June 10th. There were a few things to see and do here, but the heat was so overly oppressive that I usually left in the morning and returned by early afternoon with a 2 litre bottle of ice cold water. This was a great time to reflect on the fact that I do not need to be constantly doing something. I was still decompression from Afghanistan and Islamabad, although not the idea place to hang around for an extended period had to do.

I think I was expecting too much from the Islamabad's international airport arrivals. Yes, it was clean and bright, it looked fairly new and it had free wife. It just lacked arrival necessities such as currency exchanges, coffee shops or any shop for that matter. I like to take a bit of a break when I land somewhere or after a long bus ride, to gather my bearings. Regardless, I logged into the wifi and downloaded an eSim from Airalo  which gave me 30 days and 3 GB for $12 Canadian. It installed and worked flawlessly. Travel is becoming easier all the time.

I ordered a ride from Careem (Uber) and out I went to the arrivals parking lot, or so I thought. I took a bit to gather my bearings and it seemed odd but obvious that the arrivals pick-up was up a level, even though I came through on this lower level. Off I went, up the ramp and there was the Central Asian airport mayhem that I expected. I immediately was hit and bothered by cab drivers who kept following me with "The best rate" or "Careem does not come to the airport". A cop was watching and he could see I was getting annoyed. He walked over with his chest puffed and asked me where I was going.  I told him that I was waiting for my Careem and he immediately and quite angrily shoo 'ed the cabbies away, then turned to me with a big smile and said "Enjoy Pakistan."  

Islamabad was built in a grid and sections. I rented a room in section D-9 which was suppose to be a decent area. I found out later that it is the F sectors (7,8,9) is where I should have gone, but I noticed the pricing reflects it. So I got into my $20 a night room at the Rising Millet Hotel and tried to figure out what my plan was going to be, because I just might be here for a bit. I was not real pleased with the area as it was dirty and there was garbage everywhere. The owner did direct me to a short walk where there were many shops and restaurants so I was not going to starve. There were fruit vendors all around and I have to confess, the peaches were unbelievably sweet. Yes, I did wash them thoroughly. I am not sure why I did not take any photos of this street and area, it ended up being quite interesting. 

What did I find when I was doing a bit of googling from my room that was going to ease me into another beer free country? Of all things, Tim Hortons, that's right Tim Hortons in Islamabad. I did a quick check and they are all over this country. I guess that the Canadian Immigrants from Pakistan want to keep a taste of Canada when they return home after securing Canadian benefits. (Yeah I just said that.) That means I will have now had a Timmies in Canada, the USA, Dubai, Islamabad, Cardiff Wales, Bangkok Thailand, and Kuala Lumpur Malaysia. Timmies was about a 20 minute walk so it gave me a base from which to explore. The extra large worked out to be about $4 Canadian and it the taste was close enough. The donuts tasted like a camels asshole. I guess they don't travel well.

After a decent night's sleep I needed to exchange some money and find the Timmies. I opened the hotel doors and walked straight into the blast furnace that was 41 Celsius, 105 Fahrenheit. As I said, I knew that June is the hottest month in Pakistan but I ignored it at my own peril. There will be NO long city walks exploring the neighbourhoods. The good news is that Taxis are cheap, 2 to 4 bucks using Careem and an app call In Drive. I just figured I will go with whatever flow there is and get prepared for my 20 hour bus trip to Pakistani-administered Gilgit–Baltistan on the 10th to get my hiking on.    

A Bird In A Cage

Afghanistan, The Beauty behind the Barbed Wire

How do you even try to explain Afghanistan. I was on a guided fifteen day tour that was aimed at showing me the historical highlights while constantly giving me the reassurance of safety. I did my best to keep my eyes, ears and mind wide open during every moment of this trip. Never once did I feel unsafe but yes there were times I felt very uneasy. I discovered a people who were eager to smile, shake hands and chat the best they could. Who thanked me for visiting Afghanistan and hoped that I would share my experiences with the world. There were Ancient historical sites that were both beautiful and tragic, mosques of unrelenting beauty as if out of fiction and food that was delicious in it's simplicity of flavours. Yes, the "tourist eyes" of a trip through Afghanistan will invoke all of the above with unlimited photos and a pride at having traveled to this mysterious place in order to share the experience with those who will listen. It can be awe inspiring if you allow it to be by keeping your "Eyes Wide Shut." 

This post is not going to be all about Sh**ing on Afghanistan because I had an incredible time, sometimes with overwhelming moments. I wrote about those moments in my previous, and somewhat robotic posts. "We went here, we saw this, I learned that" etc. What my epilogue to my Afghanistan trip was the realities of travel and some of the observations that I made, which may be skewed by my Western life, but they are what I observed when I opened my eyes and ears and shut my mouth.

Registration with Ministry.

First of all was the need for me to constantly register with some government agency, usually the ministry of tourism, every time I changed locations. This was all preset by the tour operator by law but I had to make an appearance. Flying into Kabul from Dubai, register in Kabul. I have mentioned both internal flights to Mazar and Herat, I had to stop or was stopped and handed over my passport to get verified. Mind you, this is all paperwork like it was 1985 we are dealing with and not a network of computers that shared information. Second, every time we changed locations for the night, Kabul, Mazar, Bamiyan, Herat, and Kandahar meant a stop at the local Minister's office. Third, every site we visited we were pre registered and our guide carried all the paperwork. We needed to show our passport and at times have our photos taken. It was just what had to be done and only once did a bureaucrat keep us in his office for an extended period, just because he could the fucking douche.

Roadside Checkpoints

Now, let's talk about road tripping. In the fifteen days we had two massive road trips, the first was Mazar to Bamiyan the second was Herat to Kandahar, each was over 12 hours. These were long and dusty trips, many times on roads that were under construction or in dire need of repair. That was not the issue because we would always stop for food, snacks or photos. The issue with these and the local road trips we took were the security checks. In all, I experienced 53 roadside security checks. You get checked when you leave a new city, enter a new city, leave and enter a new province or just random checks because you travelled a couple hundred kilometers and it was time. There were Taliban checkpoints, which were a bit unnerving considering all the firepower but every time these ended with "Enjoy Afghanistan" and were usually a quick look at the passports. There were AFN checkpoints which were the National Police. These guys were a bit more suspicious and a few times we had to get out to have our pictures taken holding our passport. There were the Military checkpoints which were exactly what you would expect with the term military, a bit scary but it was all routine. There were the local police force checkpoints, who were guys with no authority because there was alway a member of the Taliban that was with them. Finally, random check points in the middle of nowhere, where dirty farmers tried to force a bride from the driver and we were told to never hand over the passports to them. This happened three times. Each time the guide threatened to call the Ministry and there was some yelling but we were let through. 

Quotes to live by.

"Be careful what you say, because everyone is listening and nobody can be trusted." This was what one of my guide said to me and he gave me an example, and I will paraphrase. 

"I am friends with our driver, but I know he wants to be a guide and not drive anymore. If he hears us talking about religion or the government he could report me. Nothing would happen to you and I could be killed by his accusations, all because he wanted my job."

My second guide reminded me that "everyone was listening, especially with tourists. This is still a very paranoid society and life here is meaningless."

"Do not take pictures of woman, the Taliban or any government/military buildings. If the Taliban see you and find the picture, there is NO negotiation." To this point, I was given a long guide book of do's and don'ts that were easy enough to follow. It also became a running mantra, especially with the asian guy on my trip to ask, "is it ok to take a picture here?" That is why I have zero photos of markets or bazaars that were loaded with woman because if there are woman in the street, there are Taliban watching, or better yet, Taliban informants that could be dressed as doctors or vendors. Yes, that is the reality for these guides, if we make a mistake, they could die.

*A quick aside, there was an American guy (go figure) who was taking photos in the woman's market in Herat, even after being told to stop. Abbas was suddenly grabbed on the arm and told to explain himself.

Modern Taliban?

Todays Taliban is not the fanatical extremists of the 1996 to 2001. That was a scary time for everyone in this country. When this Taliban formally took over the government on May 1, 2021 they promised reforms, especially towards woman. What they have done is open the country to tourism to get the message out to the world plus bring in much needed foreign currency. Yes, the eroding of women's rights, especially in education are happening however today woman do not need to be in a full Burka at all times. Head scarfs are now more common and woman are walking all over, no matter what city I was in. Sure, there a fu. ll Burka clad woman following behind some dirty dog of a farmer, but as it was explained to me, "We had a republic for 20 years until 2021 and the younger generations remember it and the government recognize it." I am not sure if this is just flights of fancy from today's generations but they do have mobile phones that include social media, although it is supposedly monitored. 

Future

There are modern members of the Taliban who understand that in order to develop as a society they need to be accepted by other nations. As of March 2025, no country has formally recognized the Taliban-led government in Afghanistan, known as the Islamic Emirate of Afghanistan. There are also the extremist that still thrive in this country, based mostly in and around Kandahar, the home of the Taliban. They are exactly what we think when we say the word Taliban. There are serious concerns that there two factions will eventually come to blows and cause yet another civil war because that is exactly how Afghanistan rolls. Now we need to toss in a third fun loving crew ISIS-K, led by the now captured Muhammed Sharifullah. The Islamic State – Khorasan Province (ISIS - K) is growing in strength and reputation. The are looking to establish and Islamic state in what is determined to be the Khorasan Province, which includes areas of Afghanistan,Iran, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Pakistan, and China. A new civil war in Afghanistan would be a breeding ground for these little bastards to go on a killing spree the likes of the former ISIS and Al Qaeda could only dream about.

Two weeks in Afghanistan sure as hell does not make me an expert. I do feel that Afghanistan is just the country that lives by the whole "history repeating itself" quote. It is tribal, detached, paranoid, and just cannot get out of it's own way. Millennium of civil wars, invasions, conquest, bloodshed, ignorance and religious extremism will do that to a people. It is too bad because it was one of the great stops on both the silk road bringing riches and new cultures and the hippy trail bringing stoned westerners looking for enlightenment.