The China Border

 "Let's go to the China border!" That was the first thing out of my mouth when asked what I wanted to do while travelling in Hunza. I kept reading that it takes anywhere from 6 to 8 hours to get there from Hunza. My curiosity was peaked when I met a Polish dude staying at my hotel who said that he was going the border next day from Hunza, with no stop in Sost. He was a cool old dude who ran a tour company in Poland and was getting a feel for Pakistan. 

We had a different plan. We were going to drive to Sost, which is a small village near the boarder but offers a bit of a "free trade zone" of Chinese products. Smuggling and bribery is huge in this area and the tell tale brand new, huge, black with smoked widowed SUVs passing us along the way. "We do not bother those people" said camera guy quite seriously.

First things first, we were going to stop for a swim and a kayak to break up the trip at Passu Lake. We started out early enough, following the Karakoram north towards Passu, a route we had taken a few days before. Passing Attabad lake and plowing through the Chinese made tunnels at breakneck speed, my "hash stoned" driver was in his element. As usual we made a few random stops at bridges, waterfalls and fruit stands for cherries (my choice). The turn off for the lake was just past the stop where vehicles stop to take photos of the Welcome to Passu sign (we did it) and the Passu Mountain Cones. 

The lake was clear, cold and refreshing and yes, there were only dudes swimming. Most of them did not take off their shirt, which is a huge Muslim thing but whatever. My shirt came off and yes, the stares I received from the woman who were hanging around told me that I was going to hell for my tattoos. The dudes were just dudes and wanted to swim. As with everywhere I have been, eventually we all start talking and once the ice is broken there is handshakes, laughs and questions. After a good swim it was off to the kayaks for an hour. 

A bit of kayaking

Driver doing his hippy thing

Time for post swim/kayak tea with view from the terrace

Onto Sost, the gateway for all traffic crossing the Chinese-Pakistan border. Of all the towns I have been to in Pakistan, this is the only one that felt really sketchy. I did figure that if there was a town where I could get a beer, this would be the place. In Ahad's youthful enthusiasm he was on a mission to help. After he bought 10 packs of cigarettes from a street vendor, which he told me were "so very cheap in Sost" he started asking around for beer. We went to a street vendor selling Kabobs who told him he did not have beer but something better, strong "Hunza water." They disappeared between two buildings then down an alley and out of sight. They were gone about 20 minutes and both camera man and Emmett were getting nervous, this was the first time I saw that in them as they were always happen and open for fun. Ahad finally returned with about a half a litre of clear white liquid in a bottle in his back pocket. It smelt like cherries and from what I have learned is that "strong Hunza water" is made from any fruit into alcohol. I wanted no part of it for obvious reasons.

The next morning it was China Border day. We had a breakfast of Yak burgers and headed north towards the Khunjerab National Park which takes us to our destination. Now, here we go again with the tourist pricing. Chinese and Pakistan nationals pay nothing where as I had to pay the equivalent of $40. Of course I was going to pay, and I feel luck to get into the park for that price. I came all this way and would have paid $100 if I had to. Regardless, just beware of tourist pricing in Pakistan and plan for it accordingly.

Sketch Sost

Free Trade Zone

Random stop for a photo shoot

We passed through the chaotic entrance to the National park and I had to show my passport and travel visa to three different guys who really had no interest but faked it. These guys were all about the smugglers and bribes. A tourist was a hindrance on that cash cow. The faster I was pushed across the entrance it would be back to business for them. 

The border was another 45 minutes into the park, naturally up winding mountain roads, but these roads were maintained. Paved and clean with assorted work crews along the way doing what needed to be done. This is an important road and they were going to keep it safe. We climbed the last mountain and there it was in the distance, the border between China and Pakistan. Boasting the highest ATM in the world, this is the highest land border in the world. I could feel the altitude and moved a bit slower than my normal shuffle.

Worlds highest working ATM

Great camera filter that removes all the people

At the border, both flags flying

It was a carnival like atmosphere. There were quite a few people, don't let the camera filter fool ya, although it is a very cool filter. Just standing at the border taking photos and waving to the Chinese Nationals not more than 50 metres away was a really happy moment. Remember, this is an international border. I am not showing you the miles of heavy barbed wire climbing along the ground and up the mountain, nor the scattered guard towers in the distance. Regardless it was a fun atmosphere and a highlight of my travels to date.

The barbed wire was very real

Tourist Photo

Looking back from the border

We had planned to spend about 45 minutes here due to the altitude but fuck that, and we ended up hanging around for about two hours taking photos, making videos and just having a good time. Then we packed up and drove back to Hunza, we needed to beat the sunset (which I was all for). I did not want my Mario Cart Driver blasting down the Karakoram at night. It took about 4 hours but to repeat myself, the scenery was outstanding. The Pakistani music was blaring as we blasted back to Hunza passing all the towns that I had planned on staying in. This part of my trip would never have happened if it were not for my Random Choice to walk into that restaurant in Hunza. 

However the universe has a wake to keep things balanced and I was about to experience going from a massive high to a massive low in just a few days.