What possesses a bus driver to jump into the driver's seat of a 40 passenger bus and figures that he is both invincible and he has the ability to handle said bus like it was a Formula 1 race car. Is it ego, machismo or is he just dumb enough to think he is smart.
These mountain roads from Islamabad to Gilgit were exactly what you think they are. Sometimes paved, sometimes dirt. They are wide enough or narrow enough depending on your mood, that two vehicles can pass but it is close. Passing on curves is mandatory while speeding up during the downhill switchbacks is a "challenge accepted" moment. Yes, it sounds cliche but on left hand side is a rocky mountain in which large boulders have made their presence known and have not been moved. On the right hand side is a river that runs in a valley that is no less than 1000 feet below, and at times it is straight down. There were more that a few gasps as we bent and weaved along this precipice and I counted three times that someone left their seat to speak with the driver. He was also accosted pretty good when we stopped for food.
The "good news" was that there were large area of the road that was under construction and the multitude of military checkpoints helped slow us down. There really was nothing for me to do so I put on my earbuds, played some Enigma and Delerium closed my eyes and tried to clear my head of the thoughts that were running through my head. I had been through this scenario a few times before in Central and South America in the past and I know the helpless feeling very well. Fucking bus drivers!
I purchased my ticket from NATCO, a reputable bus service. I left the massive bus station in Islamabad at 3:00 knowing that I will be arriving at approximately 6:30AM the following morning. The bus was modern enough with air conditioning so I loaded up on a few snacks to hold me over. As for snacks, my "go to" are KurKure Red Chili Jhatka and Sting Soda. I get heavy doses of both salt and sugar which are needed when it is this hot. I was looking for a few oranges, sliced watermelon, sliced mango or bananas but the market stalls in the area were not the best. Actually, I think this is where fruit comes to die. The Hunza Valley in the north is famous for its fruit, especially cherries, so I will gorge when I get there.
To prepare for this trip, I had to have 10 photo copies of both my Pakistan Visa and my passport. I got that done easy enough. The reason for this is that the Gilgit-Baltistan region has a separate administrative region from Pakistan called the Northern Areas plus it is a part of Great Kashmir. This means military checkpoints along the way and handing over a photo copy is easier then being pulled off the bus each time. It was not too long ago that violence against tourists in this area was common but the only thing I had to fear was the bus driver taking us over a cliff at a high rate of speed. Aside from that the trip was uneventful. There was a bathroom break and a late night meal break, plus the road is under heavy construction and there were long delays. I think I managed to get about 2 hours of sleep as we pulled into Gilgit at 6:30 AM, oddly enough right on time.
Booking offered me a "Level 3 Genius Discount" at the Duroyo Hotel so I booked it, $84 for 4 nights, plus they will have my room ready at 7AM so I can rest after my bus trip. This is a common offering in Gilgit for tourists coming on the bus from Islamabad. I could not get off the bus fast enough, grabbed my pack and started the 30 minute walk to the hotel. Taxis and motos were all over me but it was early, there was no traffic and I needed the walk. First impressions, this town was dirty and there was garbage everywhere. Sure, it is surrounded by epic mountains, some with snow capped peaks and it will be a decent enough place to start my trip into the Hunza Valley, but I needed some sleep to regroup. The hotel did not disappoint, I arrived and I was sound asleep in a big comfy bed about 20 minutes later. There was no checking process or need to pay, just a "Welcome sir, now you need some rest."
It did not take long to find a decent coffee shop, The Coffee Shrine, who have learned that foreigners will pay for a decent cup of coffee. I also stumbled upon a small restaurant that was dirty AF but served up the best Momos and milkshakes. Twelve Momos and the banana/mango shake was 350 Rupees, about $1.75, so this was going to be my "Go To". There are alot of places to eat, but my appetite has not been the strongest since the end of my Afghanistan trip. A few small meals a day, a bit of fruit and a lot of water has been fine. As I mentioned before, I have put on the travelers 20 so losing a bit of weight is not the worst thing right now. This is not a town to wander around and explore. The traffic is busy, aggressive and loud. The streets are dusty and the sidewalks, or what there are of them are dangerous with large open sewers and water run off gutters that are easily two feet deep and wide open.
Travel in Pakistan is not for rookies or for people who can not adjust to their situation. It is loud, dirty and aggressive BUT most people are kind and very friendly if you start a conversation with them. Even with limited English and the same standard questions "Where are you from?", What is your good name? (first name") and so on, if you just slow down and take it all in, you will be fine. Just like anywhere else, what you put into your situation is what you get back in return.
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