Fortnite

Today there were two forts that needed to be explored, Baltit Fort and Altit Fort.  Now before that I need to get something off my spleen, and that is tourist pricing. It is a national sport here in Pakistan, only rivaled by cricket and corrupt politicians. Here are a few examples, and it was the Forts that made me think WTF duck. To enter the forts, the ticket price was 600 rupees for locals (about $3), but for tourists Baltit Fort was 2000 Rupees (about $10) and Altit fort was 3000 (about $15). When I bought tea while waiting for my bus to Gilgit I watched everyone pay 50 Rupees (.25) and I was charged 60. My sugarcane drink was 120 instead of 100, can of pepsi, 120 and not 100. Yes, these are small things that equate to nothing (except the fort) but it really is annoying. NOW, on the flip side, there were quite a few times where I did not pay for my street snacks or tea and I was wished a "Enjoy Pakistan". So, naturally there is a balance as the universe provides for us, but it really is annoying when it is hot and you are not in the mood for Tourist Pricing. Ok, now let's move on while I drink the two free coke that were just delivered to my room. 

Fun Fact. I have been travelling in Muslim countries since May 20th (UAE, Afghanistan, Pakistan) and to replace my inability to drink beer I have somehow replaced that with Coke or Pepsi. There were a few bar options in Dubai but it did not warrant a 12$ Budweiser. Now, the real issue is I am now "addicted" to this nasty sugar water and the light went on knowing that millions of people are actually addicted to Soft drinks without realizing it. This product is evil in every way possible.

Baltit fort has been on the "To Be Considered" list for UNESCO since 2004. It was founded in the 8th century but after years of disrepair it is now an impressive museum. My first question about the Forts was "were they built to repel Genghis Khan. It was pointed out that it was the mountains the prevented him and his armies from attacking this part of of Pakistan. They were forced into Afghanistan but did eventually attack the Punjab region, including Lahore. 

The fort had easy access from Karimabad so after the driver picked me up and we stopped for coffee off we went. We passed through the hilly street vendors and shops which I was really enjoying. I mean it they were all selling the same crap that was made in China, but professed at it's authenticity. Many of the shops were selling polished stones and rocks from the area and they were indeed beautiful. We walked past so many people who were standing on the side of the street looking like they have had better days. Yes, these hills were steep and there was no getting around it. No cars were allowed up the street to the fort which made sense because it would have been chaos.

We joined up with a tour guide, but since it was all in Urdu I just smiled. Ahad did his best and was passionate about translating for me. These types of tours are cool but I never retain anything. The kitchen, sleeping quarters, weaponry and clothing, were all outstanding and once outside the views were impeccable. Baltit was built on a high cliff so the only way to attack the fort was uphill, the hills we walked, so enemies were in tough. There was a jail in which prisoners were lowered into a room 30 feet and that was it, the only entrance/exit. They were buried below the fort with absolutely no escape. Take that Alcatraz.

Altit was much the same however one fact stood out for me. Perched on the cliff overlooking the Hunza river, our guide took us to the roof after a really good tour in which he spoke English for me, then Urdu for the masses. He took us to the edge of the fort and there was an odd rise in floor stone work. Well, this was the place that prisoners were taken and tossed over the wall of the fort where they smashed onto the rocks about 1000 feet below. This was serious middles ages retribution. 

After the forts we stopped for the mandatory tea and big cups of Hunza water. It was decided to drive up to Eagles Nest for the Sunset, and what a freaking drive it was. Driver was a madman as we climbed and climbed on winding switchbacks which I was told promised to be a spectacular view. From the Eagle's Nest viewpoint in Hunza, you can see several prominent peaks of the Karakoram Range, including Rakaposhi, Ladyfinger Peak, and Ultar Sar.  I was somewhat surprised to find a major high end hotel at the peak, along with a huge viewing platform that included shops and coffee/tea stands. Why I was surprises is beyond me. If there is a buck to be made, anywhere in the world then it will be made. 

This was a good day. There was very little driving plus the sites and sounds of Karimabad history were there to be enjoyed, well except for the poor buggers who were tossed off the Altit fort and into the rocky abyss below.